Skincare Basics Series Part One: REGIMENS
Today we are going to kickoff a series of posts that I hope will educate you (my beautiful readers) all about the basics of skincare. Like pretty much everything in life, starting with a straightforward and easy to understand process around skincare is where you are going to see the most CHANGE in your skin. There are nutrition basics, fitness basics, and basics to pretty much every habit you’re trying to instill in your life, where, if you nail these, the rest will typically follow. So many clients and friends get overwhelmed by skincare and makeup because there is so much to be overwhelmed by! Peels, serums, cleansers, toners, essences, mists, masks, moisturizers, balms and the list goes on and on and on.
I started my skincare journey with a basic cleanser in the shower, no moisturizer, and sometimes coconut oil all over when I remembered. BASIC AF. Which, you know, was fine for a while until it wasn’t. My skin wasn’t happy, I was quickly showing signs of aging and inflammation in my skin, and in frustration decided that maybe I needed to look into this “skincare thing.”
Fast forward three and half years later, and I finally have a routine that feels really good. I’ve learned my skin type, what MY unique skin prefers, and I’ve expanded beyond the basics to include what I call PLUS products, but only after I really nailed down the solid basic four step routine that works for my skin. While I’m sure I’ll do more in-depth posts about PLUS products at some point, this series is about the BASICS!
Today’s specific talk is all about REGIMENS, and before we dive into what regimens do and how to figure out which one(s) you might need, let’s talk very briefly about understanding your skin. I want to ask you a few very basic questions about your skin, and then briefly describe what skin types you might fall under. This is meant for those who want to try and navigate these questions solo (which is absolutely fine!) however if you make it through this series and these questions and you’re still confused, I offer totally FREE 1:1 Skincare Consultations where I’ll deep dive into your skin needs and make individual recommendations for you. You can fill out the Skincare Consultation form and I’ll get it back to you ASAP.
QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF
Question 1: How would you describe your skin?
OILY
dull or shiny complexion, blackheads and breakouts more common, large pores common
COMBINATION
areas of both dry and oily skin usually along the forehead, nose, and chin
NORMAL
no or few blemishes, balanced, etc.
DRY
dull or rough complexion, irritation common, flaky
SENSITIVE
does not tolerate many products well, redness, irritation, itchy, burning common
Question 2: What is your primary skin concerns? (Try to pick 1-3 and rank them in order of importance, it will help you prioritize what products to start with)
large pores
fine lines/signs of aging
redness
extreme dryness
dullness
aging skin
skin spots/discoloration
uneven skin tone
active acne (multiple clusters of blemishes in more than one area of your face)
acne scars from historic acne
eczema or dermatitis
a known reaction to skincare products
Finding Your Regimen
Depending on how you answered the above questions, you may be ready to choose your regimen! Don’t worry if you answer those questions and still aren’t totally sure - like I said, feel free to reach out to me at jess@jessgaertner.com for a totes free one on one consultation and we can nail down your needs!
In general, most people are going to fit into one of the following categories when it comes to selecting a regimen. Here’s where people typically fall:
Sensitive/Minimal Needs
Counterstart Cleanser and Moisturizer
This is a basic entry level cleanser and moisturizer that is gentle and perfect for those who have sensitive skin or want a minimal routine.
Oily Blemish Prone Skin
This line is designed for those who have TRUE oily, acne-prone skin. With consistent use over time not only does it help to treat current breakouts, but can PREVENT future breakouts as well.
Combination/Normal Skin + Age Prevention
This line is an incredibly hydrating line with biomimic technology that is designed to adjust to your skins unique hydration needs around the clock. It’s great for normal/combo skin and those who feel more on the dry side. It’s not specifically designed for aging skin, but it is a great line for aging prevention.
Mature/Aging Skin + Advanced Hydration
This line is an incredible safer alternative for mature skin as it uses Bakuchiol (a powerful safer alternative to Retinol which rates a 9 in terms of toxicity) to target signs of aging. It’s great for really dry skin as well, and has powerful actives to change the skin.
Men’s Line
This line is specifically designed for the unique skin needs of men. We have regimens and collections for bearded men and men who shave frequently as well. Men deserve safer too!
Once you’ve identified your skin needs, and which regimen would be most appropriate for yourself, now you need to know WHY and HOW to use it!
The Importance of a Regimen
MOST* people (and I say most with an asterisk because skincare is not just a science, it’s truly an art form in the way that every person’s skin is so unique) will be able to use a curated four-step regimen as it’s designed based on the answers to the above questions. Again I say, MOST* people because what may make sense on paper for someone, may not work out in real life, and oftentimes the reasons why are unknown! I encourage you to be open to pivoting, substituting, and tweaking your routine rather than giving up. It took me over 18 months to find the right routine of products for me, and since I’ve stayed consistent, my skin has never been better!
A regimen is truly the building block to your skincare routine. Being consistent with your regimen is what is going to make sure you get the most out of your products and get RESULTS. Typically in a regimen, each product is designed for it’s specific purpose and also designed to work best when used IN COMBINATION with the other steps of your regimen. Because our skin has a natural cell turnover process every 3-6 weeks, the more consistent you can be LONG TERM with these four products is key to seeing sustained noticeable change in your skin. Oftentimes I have clients who try a line for a few days, determined that they haven’t seen a dramatic change, and give up on the line. DON’T QUIT TOO EARLY! Because of that 3-6 week cell turnover process, commit to a couple of cycles before you throw in the towel.
Also, it’s worth noting that while the cost of a regimen or collection might be more upfront, because of the effectiveness of these products when used together as intended and the fact that most of our regimens are bundled together at a discount (usually 10% off the individual prices of the products) you will be saving more money in the long run with the purchase of the products together. So for my budget conscious friends, I really think this is worth noting!
The Four Basic Steps to a Regimen
In every basic regimen there are typically four steps. Cleanse, Prep, Treat, and Protect. Each of these steps is designed to do something specific for your skin, and they typically build off of each other and work together for optimal results. I’ve had clients on a solid “routine” for years, but come to me for advice when their skin hits a plateau. Oftentimes, it’s because they are missing one of these key steps, or are using a product in a particular step that isn’t the best fit for their skin. If you can, always start with the regimen as designed - and then pivot or sub products based on how your skin does with 6-8 weeks of consistent AM and PM use. One of the many reasons I love Beautycounter is the incredible refund policy we have. You can return anything within 60 days, even if you’ve used the whole dang product. This time frame gives you so much time to really give the regimen/products a chance to do their job.
Let’s chat the basics of each step in a routine.
STEP ONE: CLEANSE
STEP ONE in a skincare routine, cleansers come in various forms and are used for ridding the skin of dirt. makeup and impurities – which can cause breakouts and poor skin health, GROSS! Cleansers come in bar, balm, liquid, and oil based forms for the most part. All work well, and all accomplish something slightly different!
STEP TWO: PREP
Prepping the skin with a toners, essences, or mists is STEP TWO in a general skincare routine, and is often an overlooked step in the skincare process, mostly because when we think toner, we think of the harsh alcohol based toners of our youth that stripped our skin of moisture! The good kind of toners are non-astringent varieties that help to balance the pH of your skin, and allow your skin to absorb the moisture based products your using rather than them sitting on top of your skin!
STEP THREE: TREAT
STEP THREE of most skincare regimens are serums or treatments, which are generally smaller particle moisturizers that are more easily absorbed into your skin and therefore penetrate more deeply. Typically, they have a higher amount of what we call “active” ingredients that address and treat specific skin concerns. Think of it as a supplement for your skin that gets locked in by the moisturizer you use following its application!
STEP FOUR: PROTECT
Daytime Moisturizer: First and foremost, moisturizers are a crucial step in the skincare regimen process. A good moisturizer will help lock in hydration and nutrients, and during the day, we also need a product that will help protect our skin from environmental assault (think the sun, wind, pollution). A good daytime moisturizer is designed to do just that without increasing your skin’s sensitivity to light.
Nighttime Moisturizer: At night is when the real magic happens with your skin! Like most other organs in your body, nighttime is when your skin is repairing itself, regenerating, and restoring from the stresses of the day. We’re also typically immobile at night, so it’s the perfect time to use a moisturizer that not only replenishes hydration, but can deliver slow absorbing, powerful active ingredients safely. The nighttime is the right time to help your skin HEAL from the damage of the day!
Suggestions for Starting a New Regimen
So you’ve committed to a regimen, now what?! The overwhelming urge is to dump all of your old products and start using all of your beautiful, safe, high performing products right away, am I right?? It’s so exciting to finally take the leap and invest in yourself and your health through amazing personal care products, and I want to make a recommendation that will set you up for the highest chance of success!
Spot test always. Even though the products I generally recommend are incredibly safe, gentle, and effective, all skin is different, and everyone will react to ingredients individually. Some people will have absolutely no issues, and others who have more sensitive skin might react to something as gentle as coconut oil. This is why I always recommend spot testing every new product prior to going all out. Try it along your jawline for a day or two before incorporating it in to your routine.
Work your new products in layer by layer. After spot testing, try one product fully at a time. For instance if you bought the Countermatch Regimen I’d focus on trying one product at at time. After spot testing the cleanser, keep your routine as is, only switching out the cleanser for a full face wash on day one. Then after you spot test the serum, on day 2 add in cleanser and serum. After you spot test the lotion, on day 3 add in cleanser, serum, and lotion. Slowly transitioning this way will allow your skin to adjust much more smoothly to a new line of products, AND will make it easier for us to troubleshoot which particular products are at the root cause of any issues you may have, should they arise.
Be aware of a possible transition period. As with anything, safe or not, our skin can go through a brief period of transition in which it may seem to react. Typically this might manifest as small bumps, slight redness, or a brief, mild breakout. Sometimes skin needs a brief adjustment period. This can be quite common, however if it persists beyond a week or two, or presents as a more intense response, please do not hesitate to reach out for guidance!
TAKE BEFORE AND AFTERS - I can’t stress this enough. Because we look at our faces daily, it’s really really hard to notice incremental changes in ourselves when we don’t have something to compare it to. I highly recommend taking before and after photos when you start a new regimen or treatment product. Take the photo in the same light, same time of day, same angle to get as accurate of feedback as possible. AND GIVE IT TIME. You aren’t going to see drastic results in a day, a week, or even a month in most cases. Consistent use over time and over several cycles of cellular turnover is going to really show you changes.
FAQs
What’s the Beautycounter refund policy?
Beautycounter is confident that you'll love everything you purchase from us. However, if you aren't satisfied with a product for any reason, simply return the unused portion within 60 days from the ship date. We will happily refund the purchase price (excluding the original shipping and handling fees) of the returned item(s) to the original form of payment. Check out more about the return policy HERE.
How long should I try a regimen before calling it quits?
Most long term skin changes won’t be apparent til after 3-4 cycles of cellular turnover. This means consistent AM/PM use of your regimen for up to approximately 12 weeks. If, during your transition to a new regimen you see severe reactions, that’s obviously a case to discontinue use immediately, however if you see small adjustments in your skin like (slight redness, or an increase in blemishes, etc.) I would recommend reaching out to your consultant for customized help on how to alter or tweak your routine for best results. The most important thing I can recommend is don’t give up too soon!
Should I use my regimen both in the morning and at night?
Yes! For best results, use your full routines both night and day. Certain aspects of a regimen are specifically designed for day and night use and the unique needs for skin protection and repair during those times.
What if I want to make my own regimen?
I would recommend trying your specific regimen as designed as your first building block to finding the right routine. MOST people benefit most by the using the regimen as designed. If you happen to need some customization, I’d reach out to your consultant after you’ve given the regimen a solid try to customize some tweaks for you.
How do I add products to a four step regimen?
Stay tuned for the next installments of our Skincare Basics series where we talk about adding in what we call PLUS products that fall outside of the traditional four step regimen. We’ll chat peels, serums, treatments, specialized cleansers, masks, oils, and more!
I hope the first part of our Skincare Basics Series has been informative for you! Before you add in anything fancy, I always recommend starting with a solid regimen for best results.
You can check out more safer skincare options here anytime!