Skincare Basics Part Four: TREAT STEP
Today we’re going to continue our installments of Skincare Basics with the third step in a recommended regimen, a TREAT PRODUCT! Oh boy, I have to tell you if I had a favorite step in a skincare regimen, THIS ONE would be it!! This is one of the last things people tend to add in, because the concept of a treat step or serum can feel a little foreign to those of us who are used to washing and moisturizing but not necessarily using items like peels, serums, etc. regularly! The reason I can’t wait to talk about the TREAT step is because honestly, this is one of the steps that I think can make the BIGGEST IMPACT on your skin concerns. Remember back when I introduced the concept of a regimen? In that blog post, we talked about choosing a line based on your skin type and we also talked about understanding your true skin concerns.
Skin concerns are typically things like: hyper pigmentation, sun spots, fine lines, redness, skin tone, pore size, black heads, texture, dullness, etc. Having an appropriate regimen designed for your skin type (oily, dry, normal, combo) is step one to getting those concerns taken care of. Step two to seeing improvement is the use of specific and targeted ingredients that are designed intentionally to address those concerns. Guess what?? The most active and targeted treatment of those concerns typically comes from the TREAT STEP!
If you want to see true and dramatic change for your skin concerns then you need TREAT products that are meant to change what you’re looking to change! Let’s dive in!
Treat Step Basics
In our first installment of Skincare Basics all about REGIMENS we touched briefly on what a treat product is and does, but here’s a brief reminder of what we NEED a treat step for:
STEP THREE of most skincare regimens are serums or treatments, which are generally smaller particle moisturizers that are more easily absorbed into your skin and therefore penetrate more deeply. Typically, they have a higher amount of what we call “active” ingredients that address and treat specific skin concerns. Think of it as a supplement for your skin that gets locked in by the moisturizer you use following its application!
Treat STEP MISCONCEPTIONS
I think the most common misconception about TREAT products are what the heck they actually are! Like I mentioned above, oftentimes treat steps are left out because they feel a little mysterious - most people are confused by the difference between a serum, and a peel and buzzwords like antioxidant, resurfacing, vitamin, peptides, collagen, etc that are typically used to describe a treat product.
I think the other common misconception is that you have to have major issues to USE a treat product in your regimen. The truth is while most treat products are going to do exactly that, TREAT your skin concerns, many of them can also offer extended protection AGAINST daily environmental stressors that lead to skin concerns. So they can be both a targeted treatment AND a powerful preventative measure in your routine.
WHAT DOES A Treat PRODUCT DO?
Short answer: SO MUCH. They are essentially targeted shots of nutrients, hydrators, and antioxidants that I like to think of as your supplement routine for your skin. Your cleanser, toner, and moisturizer are like your daily diet of nutrients, and are going to result in great overall skin health, but your TREAT products are like your supplements. These are the products that will OPTIMIZE your skin health, take it from good to great and glowing with consistent use! Let’s check out this list of what prep products (serums, peels, and treatments) can be used for:
seal in moisture and strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier
brighten dullness
decrease sun spots and pigmentation
stimulate collagen and elastin production (two key components in youthful skin)
decrease inflammation and calm redness
treat acne and blemishes
provide antioxidant protection against daily environmental skin stressors (sun, smoking, pollution, indoor/outdoor air dryness, etc.)
In short, if you’ve been using a routine that doesn’t include a treat step, and feeling like you aren’t quite getting the results you want, you can really see improvement with the addition of this step!
What are some Active Ingredients to Look for in a Treat Step
Peptides
This buzz word is found in everything from the foods we eat now to the skincare we apply to our face. It’s traditionally a powerhouse ingredient meant for anti-aging purposes, but what is it? Peptides are short chain amino acids that are the building blocks of collagen and elastin fibers that are found in our skin and keep our skin plump and youthful looking. Peptides can act as a messenger to also tell the skin to produce more collagen, which is kind of a big deal because collagen production starts to decline as we age! Different types of peptides have different physical properties and different functions for our skin. In our skincare lines, we offer products with both tripeptides and tetrapeptides. Tripeptides target skin cell renewal through the regeneration of collagen. Tetrapeptides focus on boosting elasticity and firmness.
Amino Acids
Amino acids help protect skin from damaging environmental stressors that lead to aging, while helping skin maintain optimal levels of hydration.
Vitamin C
I love this powerhouse ingredient so much that I did a full blog post on the effects of Vitamin C and a review of our All Bright Vitamin C Serum which you can deep dive into if you feel so inclined! Here are some highlights on why Vitamin C is considered so powerful!
Vitamin C has become increasingly popular as a skincare ingredient that promises powerful change. It is acidic in nature, Most skincare products that use a form of Vitamin C in their composition are using them for a few specific things:
brightening
smoothing
increasing cell turnover
accelerating collagen and elastin production
decreasing fine lines and wrinkles
reducing the appearance of:
scars
spots
hyperpigmentation
sun damage
When I reference any potential uses or outcomes for topical use of Vitamin C, I'm referencing findings from THIS ARTICLE on The Roles of Vitamin C in Skincare. This article really is a comprehensive review of Vitamin C in relation to skincare and WHY. The rationale behind exploring Vitamin C for use in skincare relates to the fact that “normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage.” We know without a doubt that one of the leading causes of skin damage is sun damage, so if nothing else, Vitamin C’s ability to perform as an antioxidant and “scavenge free radicals and dispose of toxic oxidants” is HUGE.
Bakuchiol
Many conventional treatment steps will include the ingredient RETINOL or some derivative of it. While retinol is a highly effective skincare ingredient, it’s also considered highly toxic and rates a 9 on the EWG Healthy Living App (on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the most toxic). I personally look for treatment steps that include the ingredient Bakuchiol which is a safer alternative to retinol. In our Countertime line we use what we call the “retinatural complex” which is a combination of bakuchiol and Swiss Alpine rose that deliver benefits similar to retinol, without the potential side effects.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid is another ingredient I’ve done a full blog post on because I believe it’s truly a magical ingredient for skincare. If you want to deep dive into hyaluronic acid and what it is check out that blog post for more information! But here’s a brief explanation of what it is and what it does.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a sugar found naturally in our skin that holds water and helps keep it hydrated and plump. The HA within our bodies holds a thousand times its weight in water to not only retain all that moisture in our skin and joints, but also prevent all that moisture from evaporating into the air. HA is what can really assist your NMF to attract and retain moisture in the skin.
When we use HA in our skincare products, it’s going to work to bring moisture to the surface of your skin, and acts as a humectant or water attractor. It is a skincare product SUPER INGREDIENT in this regard. Because just one gram (or 0.03 oz.) of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six LITERS of water, it really can instantly brighten and add a beautiful plumpness to the appearance of skin, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It does this incredible magic all while also avoiding OVER hydrating, which can also be a problem - it truly is a magical little ingredient.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a certain type of acid that really amplifies and supports the skins ability to slough off dead skin cells. As we age, our skin’s ability to slough off dead skin cells is compromised, and can be inhibited by other factors like acne and excess oil production. Using chemical and physical exfoliators help support this process as it becomes more difficult for us to do!
Salicylic is especially good at aiding this process, and not only removing dead skin cells, but preventing clogged pores, rough skin, blackheads and more. It also cuts through excess oil easily, and helps to remove excess oil in the skincare process so other products and ingredients can penetrate deeply. It’s amazing! Our salicylic acid is sourced from wintergreen, and when used in our Countercontrol line its a part of our SkinBalance Complex made of wintergreen and rosebay willow which helps to mattify skin, purify pores, and reduce appearance of redness while keeping skin in balance.
Different Types Of Safer Prep Products
Let’s chat the different types of treat products available to you in our safer skincare lineup!
Serums
First we have what is more like your traditional serums. Most of these fit into a regular skincare routine, but some are used in addition to your normal regimen, less than 2x a day. Let’s talk options!
Countertime Tripeptide Radiance Serum
Best for: mature and/or dry skin
Notes: This serum is the treat step in our Countertime line, and it is designed for use both morning and night. You will massage a small half pump to full pump gently onto face, neck, and décolletage with upward strokes on top of your prep step (while prep step is still slightly damp for best absorption). This product increases skin firmness, increases skin elasticity, and improves skin barrier function.
Active Ingredients: Peptides, Amino Acids, and Bakuchiol
Countermatch Intense Moisture Serum
Best for: normal, dry, or combination skin
Notes: The Countermatch Intense Moisture Serum is the treat step in our Countermatch line, and is used after toning both day and night. Simply dispense one pump into hands, then massage onto face, neck, and décolletage with upward strokes. This serum is going to deliver an immediate boost of hydration, it’s infused with antioxidants to protect skin from environmental stress, and helps minimize the appearance of fine lines, and leaves skin firmer, brighter, and more even.
Active Ingredients: Vitamin C and E for antioxidant purpose and free radical protection, two forms of hyaluronic acid for extra moisture
All Bright C Serum
Best for: All skin types. For those with sensitive skin, we recommend conducting a patch test prior to full face application.
Notes: The All Bright C Serum is a product in our Counter + Product lineup, and is used after toning during the day. Apply one pump to face, neck, and décolletage. You can use this in place of your regular daytime serum or alternate if you choose. This serum is going to give you an instant boost of luminous radiance, leave your skin glowing and even. It’s also packed with antioxidants that help defend skin against environmental stressors like pollution. To read more about this powerhouse product make sure you visit the review of the All Bright C Serum.
Active Ingredients: Vitamin C (10%), Camu Camu, and turmeric
Treatments
Our two treatments are going to belong to the Countercontrol line and feature the incredible power of our Skinbalance Complex that utilizes the benefits of salicylic acid.
Countercontrol All-Over Acne Treatment
Best for: Oily skin types and blemish-prone skin
Notes: This treat product is part of our Countercontrol line for oily and blemish prone skin. To use it, apply one pump and spread a thin layer all over the face twice daily after cleanser and toner. This product is designed to helps clear existing blemishes, and address the main causes of acne to prevent future breakouts and keep skin in balance. It also mattifies the skin, purifies the pores, and reduces the appearance of redness.
Active Ingredients: Salicylic acid derived from our SkinBalance Complex which contains wintergreen and rosebay willow. It also contains squalane, which is an olive-derived emollient, compatible with skin’s natural oils.
Countercontrol SOS Spot Treatment
Best for: All skin types (particularly those who experience breakouts or random blemishes)
Notes: This spot treatment is part of our Countercontrol line but truly this is a staple product that EVERYONE needs regardless of skin type. We ALL have gotten those few hormonal pimples around our cycle, or that pesky stress breakout before a big day, and I’m telling you this product is going to ZAP any breakout and QUICKLY! You will apply a small about to blemishes twice daily or as needed after your treat step (aka serum). It’s created for skin in distress as an invisible, lightweight gel that penetrates pores to reduce blemishes. It treats breakouts without over-drying skin, and provides relief for all skin types when an unexpected blemish appears.
Active Ingredients: Salicylic acid from our SkinBalance Complex derived from wintergreen and rosebay willow.
Peels
Peels are in a class of treatment products all their own. Peels are designed to be a chemical exfoliation product that help to resurface the skin. Peels can vary in intensity, but our peel is gentle -it both resurfaces AND soothes and hydrates because of its unique combination of ingredients. Common misconception of peels is that you’re going to wake up with your skin LITERALLY peeling off - and while that might be true of more clinical peels you’d find an an aesthetic spa, our peel is gentle enough for daily use, and does NOT result in visible skin peeling.
Overnight Resurfacing Peel
Best for: All skin types and those concerned with dull, uneven skin tone.
Notes: This treat product is a part of our Counter + product line, meaning that it’s typically an addition to your normal routine and designed for use by most skin types! I call this product magical unicorn tears because it has truly changed my skin and I think EVERYONE, no matter your routine, should use it! I suggest using this product 3-4 times a week at night after toning. I alternate this product with my normal serum every other night. I apply one to two pumps to my face and neck every other night, then brush my teeth so I can allow the product to fully absorb. Then I top with my nighttime moisturizer. Then you leave it on overnight, and do your normal morning skincare routine. I recommend using a cleanser with a slight exfoliation factor (Countercontrol cleanser for me!) in the AM post-peel to help remove the resurfaced layer of skin. Note, this product may tingle upon application!
What does it do though?? Glad you asked! These product boasts the use of AHA/BHA that helps improve skin texture and boosts clarity without irritation or over-drying. It also uses glycolic, malic, and botanically derived lactic acid, to clear away dull surface cells, and arginine and essential fatty acids help soothe to reveal a brighter, healthier looking, renewed complexion. It promotes cellular turnover for a smoother complexion, increases clarity and radiance, and does all this without drying the skin!
Active Ingredients: 15 botanically derived acids, including salicylic acid to resurface the skin + soothing and hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, fatty acids, and more to keep skin refreshed.
Tips And Tricks For Treat Products
Here are some general recommendations to help you maximize your treat step application!
typically apply while toner product is slightly damp for better absorption
You can actually rotate through several different types of treat products depending on time of day or area of face
Daytime Treat products typically focus on antioxidant ingredients and protection from environmental stressors
All Bright C Serum is a daytime specific treat step
Nighttime treat products typically are going to have your more active ingredients since you aren’t going to be exposed to sun at night, these tend to be a bit more active in terms of CHANGING the skin and repairing it overnight
Overnight Resurfacing Peel is a nighttime specific treat step
You can typically use the treat step from any regimen (Countertime, Countermatch, Countercontrol) day or night and then rotate in targeted treat steps like the All Bright C Cerum and the Overnight Resurfacing Peel every other day/night or so.
the type of treat step you choose will be dependent on your skin’s type and the general regimen recommended for you
oily - Countercontrol All Over Acne Treatment
dry skin - Countermatch Intense Moisture Serum or Countertime Tripeptide Radiance Serum
aging skin - Countertime Tripeptide Radiance Serum
combo skin - Countermatch Intense Moisture Serum
All Skin Types will benefit from the addition of the All Bright C Serum and the Overnight Resurfacing Peel
Don’t mix your treat step into your moisturizer, it can often lessen the effectiveness of the ingredients
So there you have it friends! An easy peasy breakdown of what a treat product is, why we need them, and the different options available to you! I hope this has been a helpful fourth installment of skincare basics to get you started on the road to finding your perfect regimen! Next up, we’ll talk the final step in your basic regimen: THE PROTECT STEP!